Inspiration. Ambition.
Passion. Process. Technique.

By: Alison Herman

Promotional poster for THE MENU

Host Alison Herman talks to THE MENU co-writers Will Tracy and Seth Reiss about the transition from satirical newspaper to late-night to feature writing, finding humor in sadness, the shared qualities between restaurant kitchens and writing rooms, and much more.

Will Tracy and Seth Reiss are veterans of late-night shows like LAST WEEK TONIGHT WITH JOHN OLIVER and LATE NIGHT WITH SETH MEYERS, and before that, the satirical newspaper The Onion.

Their first-ever feature screenplay is THE MENU, a horror satire that is set in the world of fine dining. The film was released in November 2022 and is now playing in theaters.

Alison Herman is a staff writer for The Ringer, where she writes about culture in general and television in specific. When not fighting a losing battle against Peak TV, she tweets at @aherman2006.

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OnWriting is an official podcast of the Writers Guild of America, East. The series was created and produced by Jason Gordon. Associate Producer & Designer is Molly Beer. Mix, tech production, and original music by Stock Boy Creative.

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Thanks for listening. Write on.

Transcript

Speaker 1: Hello, you’re listening to On Writing, a podcast from the Writer’s Guild of America East. In each episode, you’ll hear from the writers of your favorite films and television series. They’ll take you behind the scenes, go deep into the writing and production process, and explain how they got their project from the page to the screen.

Alison Herman: My name’s Alison Herman. I’m a WGA East member and a staff writer for The Ringer. And on today’s episode, our guests are veterans of late-night shows like LAST WEEK TONIGHT WITH JOHN OLIVER and LATE NIGHT WITH SETH MEYERS, and before that, the satirical newspaper The Onion. Now, they are co-writers of their first ever feature film, THE MENU, a horror satire that is set in the world of fine dining. Heads up for our listeners, this episode does go into spoilers. Will Tracy, Seth Reiss, welcome to the show.

Will Tracy: Thank you Alison.

Seth Reiss: We are excited to be here.

Will Tracy: And just so people know of the record, I’m Will.

Seth Reiss: I’m Seth.

Alison Herman: Well, we’re excited to have you. The excitement’s mutual. Let’s get into it.

Seth Reiss: Thank God.

Alison Herman: Yeah, it’s a good note to start on. Well, I do feel like I have to share that I feel extremely called out by this movie as someone who has watched many a Chef’s Table episode of my time and has been to, if not this caliber of restaurant, I’ve at least read the Yelp reviews for them, et cetera. But it made me really curious what your guys’ personal relationships are like with restaurants and fine dining just in your civilian lives.

Will Tracy: I’m very close to you. Yeah. I mean, I probably don’t go to as many of these sorts of restaurants nowadays as I did for a bit. It became sort of an obsession of mine when I lived in Chicago, Seth and I lived in Chicago, and tasting many restaurants seemed very appealing to me at the time when I was younger and had the energy for it and didn’t feel awful after eating it, like I would now. But it’s sort of been a private obsession of mine, these restaurants and chefs. And this was, during my lunch break for years, the thing that I would always be watching would be old YouTube videos of Marco Pierre White and famous chefs. And I think I never, in a stupid clueless writer way, I never thought, “Oh, write what you know, write something about that,” until pretty late in the game. Seth, your story’s slightly different than mine.

Seth Reiss: Yeah, I mean it wasn’t my thing. I will say though, that I have come to enjoy these experiences, but for most of my going out to… I feel like I’m really great at finding the places that are one below, like no Michelin stars, but if it got one we’d be like, “Yeah, that deserves one.” I’m really good at those places. And those places just tend to be normal. They’re not even that [inaudible 00:03:02]. They’re just like, they make you feel good and they serve of steak and mashed potatoes and it’s like, “Yes.”

But no, I do think Will and I, though I didn’t have as much experience with them as Will has had, I think we both simultaneously admire the hell out of them and also think some of it’s bullshit. And I think the movie, I would hope when people see it, does a pretty good job of making fun of it through our sort of main character, Margot. But also you don’t write something as lovingly about this world if you don’t love it. And I think Will absolutely loves it and I have a deep respect for it. So it’s balancing those two things.

Will Tracy: And by that same token, I both feel fine with the amount of comfort and joy that I take in this subject. And I also hate myself a little bit for how much this fascinates me, because there’s an element of just grossly conspicuous consumption to the idea of these restaurants that makes me feel like a bit of a cliche that this is an obsession of mine. And so that’s, in a way that Tyler character in the film, I relate to in a way that occasionally makes me uncomfortable.

Alison Herman: If you were in Chicago and going to these kinds of restaurants, I think I have to ask if you encountered any of the Grant Achatz Alinea group institutions?

Will Tracy: Of course, yes.

Seth Reiss: Oh yeah, of course.

Will Tracy: There are a few nods to Alinea. Now, Alinea though is an example, to give them their due, it’s an example of a tasty menu experience, storytelling style modernist restaurant that actually earns its stripes, right? I mean, I think that it is a place where it is magic. And I’ve told this story to Seth before, but I remember when I ate there, this was 10 years ago, but I was sitting next to kind of an older couple who seemed fairly traditional, and just in overhearing their conversation, it was clear that their children had bought them this meal as a anniversary present and they were pretty skeptical. I don’t think they’d ever been anywhere like this before. But sure enough, by the end of the meal, they’re laughing, they’re smiling, the story has worked on them. And so that’s an example of how it’s done right.

And next also, I mean the restaurants in that empire are, to call it an empire, are the best versions of this. But it can very quickly go, not in the direction that it goes in the film, but it can go in a somewhat punishing direction where you feel as though you are not so much being intellectually challenged, but you are being sort of subjected to the never ending onslaught of the chef’s ego.

Alison Herman: Yeah, I mean that’s also, so there’s the customer side, but also as explored in the film, there’s the service and producer side. And I did want to ask if that’s something that you guys have experienced in either working in restaurants yourself or even just cooking and learning that craft at home?

Will Tracy: Nope. Nope. There are no callouses on these hits, right Seth?

Seth Reiss: No. My service experience is that I was a bag boy at a country club and I was a caddy at some country clubs. That’s my service experience.

Will Tracy: I’m a full retail video store. That’s that. So no, but no, nothing like the experience in this. But what we do have, I think is, and not to draw out too fine a parallel to them because I don’t want to insult anyone and they are different. But there are certainly overlaps between the kind of all-encompassing pressure and culture of a writer’s room and the kitchen experience. Just writers are paid a bit more money.

Seth Reiss: And there’s an element, because… It’s a spoiler, we’re in the spoilers. When the female sous chef, when she tells the female diners, “No, actually everyone dying was my pitch.” And she’s really excited about that. And for me and Will, we know what that’s, and I’m sure you do too. We know what that’s like when you pitch something to your boss and he’s like, “You nailed it.” [inaudible 00:07:17]

Will Tracy: Especially when your boss is, when you have this sort of culturally high status omniscient godlike boss, even if you see some of the flaws, some of the chinks in the armor, and even if you see that person as a human much more than an outside observer might, you can’t help but at that point you’ve been punished and nurtured and broken down and rebuilt by this person so many times that you can’t help but some part of your heart is still wanting the affirmation. It’s very important.

Seth Reiss: Everyone, I think everyone in that restaurant wants validation and affirmation.

Will Tracy: In equal measure.

Alison Herman: Yeah, I think that’s a very common thing in films and TV shows about creative pursuits that aren’t film and TV, as you quickly start to pick up. Everything kind of works as a metaphor for everything else, right?

Will Tracy: That’s right. Correct.

Seth Reiss: There’s a lot of one for one mapping that you can pretty easily do.

Alison Herman: Well I did want to ask, since you guys have worked in the same worlds of The Onion and Late Night, but I was curious how the specific collaboration on this feature came about between the two of you.

Will Tracy: I think we had tried to write another film that was more purely comedic that the world resoundingly rejected. And look, it had its virtues and its flaws. I think that we were cognizant though of trying to write something that would be a bit more eye catching and a bit maybe formally or stylistically unusual and had more of a specific voice and also maybe would be the kind of thing, look, you always have to be aware of what someone who’s reading it might think could earn the money. And so I think we did think about how we could play with different tones and different genres and what might make for an interesting theater experience specifically.

I don’t think we knew this at the time, but I think we maybe became gradually aware of this idea of like, “Oh yeah, it’s sort of a bunch of paying customers in a room watching a movie about a bunch of paying customers trapped in a room,” and that there’s something kind of really cool and interesting and funny about that experience. And especially when you see the movie with a live audience, you can kind of feel that crackle in the room. I think we were trying to just get something that would maybe get us other work. I don’t think we necessarily felt, “It’s going to get made.”

Seth Reiss: Yeah, there is something sellable about one location, you can keep it going. It feels to the reader cheaper until actually when you go to produce it’s not, because money gets spent and you realize, oh that thing you thought could be made for 8 million or 5 million dollars, it was this much millions of dollars and you don’t, us as writers, we don’t know why. But I do think though, there was nothing in the creative swing that for me and Will, that felt like we were writing something that would fit into what was happening and that would sell based on this, this, this and this. Or, this thing is out. I mean creatively there was never an idea that we thought, “Oh well, that might not flow because we’re being mean to this person.” Or, “That might not flow because it’s getting too crazy.”

Creatively it’s all a big swing that had nothing to do with, it will sell. I think creatively we were just interested in creating that sort of tone that I think Will and I together can do quite well, and that is sort of indicative of what we do. And I do think if you’re trying to break into a business, people want to read a thing that’s interesting and that has an interesting voice to it, not something that’s just kind of what is selling at the time. Because I think the people who are writing the stuff that is selling at the time are already kind of in the business. And Will and I, we were not in the movie writing business. We were Late Night writers. Will just started writing for Succession. I mean it was just, it’s a different skill set. You have to almost always prove yourself in each world.

Will Tracy: And then no matter what subject matter that you think is esoteric and not going to be of general interest, I mean, yeah, you’ll find that there are a lot of people like you and I Alison, who watch all these Chef’s Table and watch all, and maybe have not felt as though they’ve been served something on the big screen that kind of captures that particular pretension, and we’re ready to laugh at that. Or people who are… But hopefully the movie works both ways where it’s both for Tyler’s and for Margot’s, right. People who know that world and people who don’t, and it will kind of delight them equally. Hopefully.

Alison Herman: The comedy horror crossover I think is something that people are not very familiar with in recent years. Obviously Jordan Peele, I adored Barbarian and it seems to be…

Will Tracy: Yeah, I haven’t seen it yet, but I hear it’s wonderful.

Alison Herman: I mean I guess you can’t see it in the theater but just fire it up on HBO Max in a dark and empty house and let the magic flow. But it clearly seems to be a skill set that translates relatively well from one medium to the other. And I was just wondering how your guys’ background in comedy ended up applying to this script that straddles both genres, I think.

Will Tracy: In a way I think we weren’t even considering genre or horror. I think we were trying, just the constraints of that room and our comedy writers’ instinct to keep escalating the scenario and ratcheting the tension, ended up being not so dissimilar from a horror filmmaker’s design. Right.

Seth Reiss: And I think Will and I both find a descent into psychosis quite funny, and I think we will always write that in a funny way. I think that’s just how we lean. And also our time at The Onion, I think also Will and I find wells of sadness quite funny and we find when people say one thing but clearly feel another thing, we find that very funny. I think that’s a staple of The Onion also. And so I do think that seeped its way into this movie. I think it’s actually quite an Onion-y movie in a certain sense, about how specific the world is and how we get into the people who populate it and we really get into how they actually tick.

Alison Herman: Well, I’d saved my Onion questions for maybe slightly later on, but now we can just get right into it. Maybe a good place to start would just be how you guys encountered each other at The Onion and how you ended up gravitating to each other as collaborators.

Will Tracy: I remember the first time I saw Seth, I just started my first day as an intern at The Onion. This was like 2000 and maybe ‘6-

Seth Reiss: Yeah, ‘5 or ‘6.

Will Tracy: ‘7? Somewhere in there. And Seth I think had just started as a staff writer. And I would think I was scared of all the writers, but I do think Seth and I did, you know we’re the same age. We had kind of similar interests and a similar sense of humor, and I think we recognized that. I think Seth was loath to recognize that at first because he didn’t want to be the staff writer who’s hanging out with the intern. But I think he recognized it.

Seth Reiss: Yeah, yeah, totally.

Will Tracy: But I started contributing to The Onion and then joined the staff, and I think from the moment I joined the staff, it felt like we were pretty much in love.

Seth Reiss: Yeah. I mean, and Will is a beautiful writer, and at The Onion especially, there’s kind of a wide range of article types. And Will was always able to write any kind of them. Whereas with me, I had certain strengths and I also had weaknesses. And in order for me to achieve excellence in the ones I was weak at, I’d have to really, really sit down and really, really think about it. And so Will has, his mind is so wonderful and he writes so beautifully. And then as we rose at The Onion Will ultimately became editor in chief, which is, he was destined to be that role at The Onion.

And I ended up being head writer and that’s sort of where I should have been too. I don’t think I would’ve been a great editor in chief. I was, the way we are emotionally, we tend to act differently emotionally throughout our day. And I think we both love each other and the way we also, we act, but one is more conducive to being the Editor in Chief of The Onion and the other is conducive to being the leader of some people. And we’re in the scrap together. And we also just really love movies. I think, and Will and I also have sort of the same… Like, Will and I were talking about Funny Form for a while the other day, and-

Will Tracy: Chevy Chase film, Funny Farm. Are you familiar Alison?

Alison Herman: I am not. I have to be honest.

Seth Reiss: No, and it’s okay because I think, Will and I were saying, “Like, nobody saw this movie.” It’s like, I saw that movie, and I think we had a sort of similar movie language of things we saw and obsessing over What About Bob and knowing these weird John Candy movies. There was just something that brought us together.

Will Tracy: Usually movies that commercially did okay, not great, not like famous bombs, not like Ishtar, but things that did fine that maybe just barely recouped the investment. Right?

Seth Reiss: Yeah. And then we kind of wrote The Menu the way the Onion is kind of written, because at The Onion you have your headline and then as a group you sort of brainstorm what will be in the story and what jokes will work in the story and how the story will heighten. And we kind of did that with The Menu. We sat down, we worked together on the outline over various nights and nights and nights and nights and nights. And then it got to a point where it’s like, okay, we feel like we’re ready to write. And so I would go off, write 15 pages by myself, send it to Will. He would do a pass, write 15 pages, send it back to me. And that was really the best way for us to write it. And it also allowed for us to surprise one another, because in certain areas where the outline really didn’t fill in everything that needed to happen in a certain situation, we just figured it out ourselves and had fun with it.

Alison Herman: You alluded to the fact that the different forms of writing you’ve done have all kind of required adjustments in skill sets and you guys have done a lot of different forms of writing in your careers. So maybe the first one would be the transition from writing for The Onion to writing for television. And in your case it’s Late Night. Obviously there are a lot of people who have made that transition over the years, but it still seems like a pretty steep adjustment in some ways. So I’m curious how you guys handled it.

Will Tracy: I think the biggest transition is just, it sounds so obvious, but it’s immediately apparent is, oh the words I’m writing are going to be coming out of someone’s mouth. And so even down to basic adjustments, like less words in a sentence, faster, quicker is better. And which was not always the case in The Onion. Some of the funniest bits of The Onion are the purposefully unwieldy, dense, insane ed voice gone crazy dense blocked passages. And you can’t really do that with, you’re not allowed that luxury with a performer. It’s just too much. It’s too much of a mouthful.

And also that kind of density sometimes can be off-putting to an audience. It feels unrelatable and not very quick and pithy and likable. It sounds like someone who’s just going on too long and it’s a bit of a bore. And so you really do have to adjust for that. And also there are some really smart, subtle, interesting jokes that you could do for The Onion that are not necessarily big laugh jokes with a live audience where you have to be aware of the kind of jokes that take three seconds to process, and the kind of jokes that take 0.5 seconds to process. And the point fives are going to probably be a safer bet because time is of such a premium in television.

Seth Reiss: I feel like if Seth Meyers listens to this, he’ll be asking when will Seth Reiss learn this lesson that Will [inaudible 00:19:28].

Will Tracy: I struggled with it too. I mean that’s why I don’t do it anymore. It’s just, it’s…

Seth Reiss: Yeah, it’s hard. I mean because The Onion is a one to one relationship. Someone is privately reading the Onion alone, and if they’re reading past the headline, that probably means the story, in some way they relate to it. So they’re already sort of invested in the content whereas, and at The Onion we don’t see the people who are skimming over the headlines that they don’t really want to read about. We don’t see that. And in Late Night it’s not a one to one, it’s a one to 277, or it’s a one to 1.2 million. And so it’s almost, it’s like a little less personal and it’s a little less… You have to be a little more broad. But I don’t say that in a bad way. It just makes sense because of the medium.

Will Tracy: And the other thing is that a Late Night host, they’re sort of in character in that they’re kind of like, there’s a persona, and they’re not exactly the same person on screen as they are offscreen, on screen, but they’re kind of being themselves and they need to connect as themselves with the audience, and they also need to be liked by the audience and they can’t be off putting and you have to make them look good, and you have to be careful what you put in their mouth. And there’s certain things that hosts are like, “I don’t really want to say that. It’s kind of funny, it’ll be a funny thing for a character to say who’s an asshole, but I’m not an asshole and I don’t want to be perceived as an asshole, so I don’t really want to say that.”

Seth Reiss: And that’s kind of a lovely thing about writing at Late Night with Seth Meyers is, he’s an amazing performer but he’s such a great assist man also. And he’ll work just as hard in making sure that the person who he is doing a sketch with is funnier than he is. Making sure that person is set up to succeed and score as he would himself whenever he’s doing A Closer Look or another segment where he’s just sort of talking to camera. And I think actually it’s funny because the writers tend to be more a part of the show on Late Night With Seth Meyers I, Seth has a vast plethora of taste and I just think he knows what works coming out of his mouth.

But he also knows what really also works coming out of Amber Ruffin’s mouth or a long time ago Conner O’Malley’s mouth or on the rare occasion that I get to do it, out of my mouth. He understands. And you are writing for, like Will said you are writing for that person and you have to be aware of what they might want to do and not… Because if you do it enough, if you pitch enough stuff that they don’t want to do and it’s just comedically interesting to you, that’s kind of selfish. That’s not what the money’s for.

Alison Herman: So once you did make that adjustment, are there any particular sketches or jokes that did make it on the air from your time in Late Night that you’re particularly proud of?

Will Tracy: Oh my God, my dreams at Late Night fucking came true. It was insane. We did a sketch early on called the Sorkin Sketch where it was a pre-taped piece where everyone was asking, because Aaron Sorkin was going to be on the show that night and everyone was asking Seth, are we going to do an Aaron Sorkin parody sketch? But the whole style of the sketch was done like an Aaron Sorkin parody. And also then at the end of the sketch, Aaron Sorkin was in it. And this was like three, this was like four months into my time there.

And actually the executive producer of the show, Mike Shoemaker, who’s the best, before, after the segment ended, I was sitting watching it happen and he’s like, “It probably won’t get better than this.” This is four months in. And he’s like, “It’ll probably be downhill from here.” And in a certain sense he was right. But there was another sketch that, there’s, there’s been a bunch, but another one that was really fun to just, I was watching the trailer for Black Mass in a movie theater and I just texted Seth, “A trailer for a movie called Boston Accent.” And he was like, he’s like, “That’s great.” And so that happened. And then that just happened. It is a sheer joy to be able to work there and call that place a home base.

Alison Herman: Now that you guys have done some scripted work as well, Will, I specifically wanted to ask about Succession since there are a lot of players in common between Succession and The Menu, obviously. Adam McKay’s a producer, Mark Mylod is the producing director on Succession and directed the feature. I noticed Lawrence is a presence. And obviously there are overlapping themes between the two. But I was curious how your work on one both practically and temperamentally bled into your work on the next project.

Will Tracy: It was a really smooth transition because the particular episode that I wrote in season two that Mark directed called Turn Haven, it’s kind of all, it’s centered around a bunch of people in a room having dinner. So there was quite a bit of overlap there and quite a bit of attention paid on that episode to making that room where they’re eating dinner feel lively, which oftentimes you don’t get that in a dinner scene or a restaurant scene set in a film or television show, because there’s a feeling that there’s one central conversation that’s happening and then everything else around the room, all the other people are just sort of miming and pretending to eat and it feels very cold and you actually don’t want to be distracted by anything in the background because you want to be focused on the conversation.

And I think Mark and I were quite keen on making that entire room feel alive so that the camera could be swinging from this side of the table to that side of the table and giving all the actors at the table quite a bit to work with. So even if it’s not their coverage, they have something to be talking about. So it feels like you’re really eating dinner with a lot of people and there are multiple conversations happening. And that same kind of principle was what Seth and I wanted to do.

And then Mark, once he came on board, wanted to do it with The Menu even more so because it’s separate tables and it’s really much more of an ensemble in terms of every kind of table relates and is eventually drawn into that central A story. And so yeah, it’s the same stuff. I mean we were, Seth and I were there every day on set and we were moving on to the set between takes to give actors kind of improv, usually for the tops and tails of their scene so that when the camera would swing to a new table, we weren’t feeling that they were just two actors sitting there waiting for their scene to start. They already had something, a conversation that they would be in while we were joining them. And there’s lines, funny lines, interesting ideas that made it into the movie based on that kind of either alt lines or improv suggestions that we were giving to the actors. So I don’t think that would’ve been possible had Mark and I not already had that shorthand together from working on the show.

Seth Reiss: Yeah, I mean it’s like utter lunacy that Will and I were allowed to be on set for the entire filming of the movie. And not only that, sitting right behind Mark in Video Village in times when he would need it, would turn to us, ask what we thought and we would give notes. We were always there for rehearsal at the top of the day just to see what was going on. And Mark would come to us and ask us, and Mark obviously knows exactly what he wants, but he’s an amazing collaborator. And watching him on a set and how he handles everyone, I learned a few things about how, if I’m ever in that position, how I’d be.

Will Tracy: Yeah, he’s very, he’s extremely clear.

Seth Reiss: Yeah, he is.

Will Tracy: I think there are some directors who are maybe sometimes less sure of what they want and less sure what their vision is. And so they’ll talk and talk and talk around giving a clear answer because they do want to sound authoritative and they want to sound smart and engage with the material and they want to give an actor or a craftsman on set the feeling that, oh, this person is smart and knows what they want, but it’s really dancing around the clarity. And Mark is very, very, very clear. And so actors I think really respond to him and really love him because of that clarity, which I wouldn’t be able do. I’d be tap dancing all around the place trying to get out of, give you an answer to something that I really want one more day to think about.

Seth Reiss: The answer that Will would be tap dancing around is, “No, I don’t want to say the word no. What are all the ways I can get out of saying, I don’t want to do that?”

Will Tracy: Seth pinpointed to me, I wasn’t aware I was doing this for years, but he pinpointed me that when I say, when I want to say no to something, but I don’t want to actually say the word no, I’ll say like, “Yeah, we can talk about that. Yeah, we can talk about.” As if there’s going to be a later day in which we will talk about it and I will say yes. But no, it actually just means, no.

Alison Herman: It’s very corporate management speak, so maybe you’re internalizing it from your time.

Will Tracy: [inaudible 00:28:34] like who I am at all. But for some reason I did like, yes, that’s part of my [inaudible 00:28:40]. And now I’m aware of it and try not to do it.

Seth Reiss: It’s funny because if I ever wanted to press, “Okay, when? When were we going to talk about it?”

Will Tracy: Exactly.

Seth Reiss: Okay, great. Let me know when, I’ll just put it on my calendar.

Will Tracy: And I would say, “Later,” is what I would-

Seth Reiss: Yeah, [inaudible 00:28:58] “Let me think about it.”

Alison Herman: Even just practically, I was also wondering just how it came that you brought Mark onto this or that Adam came on board. Is it like you had an idea and were like, “Hey, would you want to hear about this?”

Seth Reiss: With Adam and Betsy, Adam McCay and Betsy Koch at Hyperobject, when the script went out, it had some interest and so we had calls with various producers, and after our call with Betsy, I mean that was it. Will and I went with her and Adam McKay. Because they got it, they loved it. They were passionate about it. We could tell. And that, I will say in my experience now, a little bit of experiencing a little bit more of this world, that producer passion is so important in getting something to the finish line.

Because at various moments we actually had a fairly stable path to production. We had some hiccups, but because Will and I are new to this world and we are so aware, I think of the stories about the industry, I think there’s a bit of, “Well, once this thing goes wrong, it’s all going to go wrong.” And that domino hits that, that Adam and Betsy along with having great tastes and great notes were always, were going to make the movie. “Don’t worry, we’re going to make the movie. We love the movie, we’re going to make the movie.” And that was really worth its weight in psychological gold as the process continued.

Will Tracy: Yeah, it’s true, I think. And we continued to be very big cynics throughout, like Seth said, like, “Oh, ” like, “Hey, I read Easy Riders Raging Bulls. I know about Hollywood, I know how projects disappear. I’m an old salty pro.” And I think that occasionally our cynicism prevented us from enjoying the experience a bit more.

Seth Reiss: Absolutely. Tonight, as we talk to you, Tonight is the premiere of The Menu. And I’m still certain Searchlight’s going to shelve it.

Alison Herman: You’re going to get a text while we’re on the line, just don’t bother showing up.

Will Tracy: We did not allow ourselves to be excited at any point. And in terms of Mark, we had talked to a few other directors before Mark, and I think for a writer, what you kind of always really want to hear from a director is that, “I love this, I understand it and I know how to do it.” And sometimes even with really brilliant directors who you’ll talk to, there’s a little feeling of like, “Yeah, what is this movie? I wonder what it is.” And we’re kind of sitting there thinking, “Well, we know what it is. It’s not a puzzle to us.” And so when we met with Mark, it was immediately, it felt very comfortable. And obviously it helped that I knew him already, but I remember having a drink with him in our neighborhood in Brooklyn, and he had read the script and I think he had very clear thoughts about what do you want to do? And he just immediately wanted to be clear, “I love it and I know what this is and I think I know how to do this.”

Seth Reiss: And from that point, it makes doing a pass for a director so much easier because you and the director are then aligned in going down the same chute together. And you’re not trying to make an argument with your pass to the director as to why they should now understand it. And if you’re trying to make that argument, that’s a tough position to be in. And I actually, I tend to think that once somebody says how they feel about something creatively, they’re probably going to feel that way.

Will Tracy: You’re not going to chase their mind.

Seth Reiss: No matter what. I think they, it’s just that gut artistic instinct. And that’s okay. I mean, it’s absolutely okay if their gut artistic instinct is uncertainty. And I think that uncertainty will probably continue on unfortunately for a while. But if the gut artistic instinct is certainty, and also what I’d like to see, that’s a different type of working relationship.

Will Tracy: And sometimes what it really comes down to is the director is thinking, and I think this is totally justifiable for, if you’re a director, really thinking about your career and really thinking about wanting to have a signature career or a voice. A lot of times what they’re thinking is, how can I make this movie more like me? Which is, again-

Seth Reiss: Makes sense, right?

Will Tracy: Makes sense. Totally the [inaudible 00:33:24] thing. But for the writer, of course, all we were thinking is, please just think about how do we make this a great movie? So that’s, sometimes can be the push and pull with writers and directors. But we never really had that with Mark. I think he knew that he was a good fit for us, so he wasn’t having to think about how can I make this more me? I think he already felt like, this feels like something I can do and this will feel like a Mark Mylod movie. And it does.

Seth Reiss: Yeah. And I think he had, based on what we had, felt like he artistically had a way into the movie, be it through the character of Margot, be it through chef’s ego, be it through… I think he felt in as opposed to… And, which I totally understand when a director is trying to find his or her way into a movie but then can’t. That’s totally fine, that makes sense. But when you can’t, just say goodbye and let’s try to find someone who can.

Alison Herman: Once Mark came on board, I mean this may have been something you guys thought about even beforehand, were there any visual touchstones that you guys were talking about as references? I think Chef’s Table is the obvious one, but there’s a whole canon of food on film that I was wondering what your guys’ touchpoint was.

Will Tracy: Yeah. In terms of movies about food, we oddly did not talk that much about, other than Bunuel’s two films about eating and either not being able to start eating or not being able to finish eating. I don’t think we talked that much specifically about food movies. We did talk a lot about, and Mark has talked a lot about Gosford Park, which similarly was a reference point for the Succession episode we worked on, that feeling of being part of a lot of different conversations happening at once in the overlapping dialogue, and the sort of contextual clues on the wall. And that’s how you kind of build a story and move around the room, almost like the camera’s a servant or a waiter moving around the room. That was an important touch point. And I’m trying to think of other examples, Seth, but…

Seth Reiss: Well, Starving Angel obviously was [inaudible 00:35:31] Mark wanted the cast to watch that movie, and there’s elements of our movie and that take [inaudible 00:35:39] ripped off. No. In a certainly loving way.

Will Tracy: Yeah. I think we, when talking to people in early stages, we would hear a lot about like, “Ooh, it’s tricky melding those tones,” right?

Seth Reiss: Right.

Will Tracy: And it’s just, as writers, it’s not something we really thought about because for us it felt like, yeah, the comedy and the thriller elements were kind of coming from the same mechanism and it seemed clear what the tone was to us and how to do it, and I think to Mark as well. But I think what we didn’t realize was the real concerns come down the road when you’re shooting, and especially in the edit, to make something feel both funny and tense or horrific at the same time without feeling too arch, right? Without feeling like you’ve over egged the custard in either direction where the satire feels too big and obvious or the horror beats are too punishing and jump scary and it just feels like a weird tonal mishmash. And that stuff is in the edit to get that right.

Seth Reiss: Yeah. I think the movie can be summed up in the 10 seconds in which there’s a gunshot and then we cut to Nicholas Holt’s character who flippantly says, “I didn’t see that coming.” I mean, that’s the movie, because for the audience, and when I watch it with audiences, a bunch of times at this point, they’re horrified by that moment. And it cuts to Nick, he says that and they laugh. And so the movie could have gone in this extremely, extremely grim direction, but the way that’s paced and the way it cuts back to Nick, it’s like, no, no, we’re not losing that charm and humor that you’ve become accustomed to throughout the movie up until this point.

And I think the same thing sort of happens when, it’s another sequence with Nick where he cooks, and I think it’s actually quite a sad, humiliating scene. I think it’s kind of my favorite in the movie. And then we’re kind of scared a little bit what’s going to happen, and then we see the title card, Tyler’s Bullshit, and they immediately, the audience immediately laughs. And so it’s really balancing those two things. And that is a credit to pace and tone, and that’s created by Mark and our editor Chris Elson.

Will Tracy: When you get characters like that in a pressurized situation and they’re trapped in a room, people get honest really quickly and some of their cultural pretenses drop. And so that honesty, there’s a lot of potential for comedy there. People can start saying what they’re really thinking.

Alison Herman: Yeah. Well, I just wanted to ask about the pace because I thought the movie is structured in a very interesting way where it feels like there’s this real inflection point almost exactly at the halfway mark, which is exactly what you identify, which is when the gunshot happens. And it’s not just the gunshot, it’s a very rapid sequence of events of you go from gunshot to finger chopped off to, “Oh, and by the way, everyone’s going to die.” And we basically know how this is going to end in the space of four minutes. And I thought that was such an interesting choice on your guys’ part and really pivots the movie from this kind of slow buildup to a more surrealist back half. And I wanted to ask you guys what the thinking was behind that choice.

Will Tracy: I think what we liked was to have something like that happen maybe a little bit deeper into the movie than you would expect. But then also after that happens, although everything changes, at another level, nothing changes. The structure continues of here’s the next course, here’s your wine pairing. The elegance of the service, the consistency of the service and the timing of everything actually remains the same, even though the emotional dynamic has completely changed.

Seth Reiss: Which then, to your point, that does make it a little bit more surreal. And that does then make Margot, we’re seeing through Margot’s eyes, this is fucking insane and these people are, I don’t belong here. And I also maybe don’t belong over there either. And because this is completely antithetical to how I would feel or act in this situation. One could argue structurally that the end of act one in our movie happens on page 55, because you could say that the gunshot is sort of the end of act one. But I love that.

And I also love that we made the choice for the chef to say, “Oh no, everyone’s dying tonight.” And I think a lot of people would say, “Well, why would you give away the game so soon? Isn’t it better to have people realize it?” So it’s like, “No, we’re telling you what’s going to happen.” How it happens is way more interesting than what’s going to happen. I’ve always said if there was a black title card at the beginning of the movie that said, the character of Margot gets out, I would be fine with that. Because of course she does. But how it’s how she does it is what matters, is what’s interesting anyway. I think.

Alison Herman: I think we have time for one more question. I think I’m going to cheat and do one real question and maybe one rapid fire before we leave. But for the final question, we ask a lot when guests are on the show about how the pandemic and the coronavirus affected the project, which I’m sure was the case here. But I think your movie is very unique in that the subject of the movie was something that was very affected by COVID. And also that brought out a lot of the dynamics that we see in the movie of the antagonism between the server and the served. And I was just wondering whether or how that played into your guys’ thought process throughout the writing and production here?

Will Tracy: Yeah, I mean we wrote a lot of our early drafts and were kind of already getting everything off the ground long before, but we were getting ready to start shooting and then the pandemic started. We were getting closer to that end of production. And so then it kind of, there was some thought of, oh, does this… Because it affected the restaurant industry so deeply, is this something that we need to acknowledge? Does this make the movie less effective? Does it make it actually more interesting?

And then there was quite a bit of debate. It is directly referenced in the film. There’s one of the kind of investor characters says, “He kept you open through COVID, you prick.” And there was a bit of back and forth about does that date us to this particular time and place and will it not have much resonance in later years? And do we want the movie to feel like a bit more timeless or universal and not like it’s pegged to a specific moment in… But in a way I felt like that line is-

Seth Reiss: I lost this argument.

Will Tracy: Yeah.

Alison Herman: He said you’ll talk about it later.

Seth Reiss: Yeah, we can talk about that.

Will Tracy: I think ultimately McKay was in my corner or at some point, something, “Oh, I love that line.” So it kind of felt like, okay, I had someone in my corner. But was, I think ultimately it says, it’s not so much a line about COVID or that time period in particular. I think it kind of eloquently summed up maybe how imbalanced that relationship between the investor and Chris- [inaudible 00:42:40]

Seth Reiss: Servile. Like chef needs chef. Chef is the servant of him.

Will Tracy: And also brings to mind like, oh, they kept them open through that and how difficult that must have been for the people in that kitchen. And it dredges up a lot of feeling, right?

Seth Reiss: Yeah, and also just COVID being a part of the production. I mean, we were shooting at the height of Delta and we did not shut down once. And I’m sure that is a miracle, but to watch the infrastructure of testing, and I would say it was pretty blown away by the lengths to which we all went to make sure that the set was as COVID free and safe as we possibly could make it. And…

Will Tracy: We killed dozens, but.

Seth Reiss: Oh, dozens. Dozens died, but not of COVID. Not of COVID.

Will Tracy: Not of COVID. Yes, right, we should-

Seth Reiss: Something else. But not of COVID. And it was pretty remarkable to watch. And I do think it does create a sort of boy, we are in this thing together. I really hope none of us get sick. And we’re in Savannah, and please eat outside if you can, because they’re allowing indoor dining. So please if you can. And I think we followed that to a certain extent and we did create a sense of comradery going through it. And I hope we never have to go through it again, because it sucks.

Will Tracy: Yeah. Because it was tough, right? Because it is basically a movie set mainly in one room and we’re all kind of packed in that room and going into that room and on a sound stage because that’s a build, that’s not a real practical location. So.

Seth Reiss: We called it the COVID Den.

Will Tracy: The COVID Den. Right. That’s cool. So yeah, you were very aware of being a little bit boxed in, but there’s also a way in which that may have added a slight good, interesting frisson of tension and claustrophobia to the movie.

Alison Herman: Yeah. Well I think we are out of time, but for the final question, since this is a movie about food, I did want to ask you both if there’s one particular memorable meal or restaurant that you would like to shout out as we end this conversation.

Seth Reiss: Let’s just do Savannah’s Finest.

Will Tracy: Let’s do something in Savannah?

Seth Reiss: Yeah. Call the Savannah’s Finest, we did great in Savannah.

Will Tracy: Yes.

Seth Reiss: Will, you do. We’ll keep going back and forth.

Will Tracy:  There’s a restaurant called Common Thread in Savannah, where one of our chef consultants, John Benhase was running that restaurant and that, sort of almost in a way became kind of unofficial cast and crew, canteen of the show where that was a regular stop and we were always treated very, very well.

Seth Reiss: Cotton & Rye in Savannah, amazingly solid. Great burger. Great Burger, Cotton & Rye. Classic Smash Burger. I think those two. Bull Street Tacos in Savannah. Fantastic.

Will Tracy: It’s important to us to kind of save some of these places just because those background actors working in the kitchen are actual local cooks who were actually working in a real working kitchen, were plating and serving, and they did just an incredible job. So.

Alison Herman: That’s amazing. Well, thank you both for taking the time. This was such a great conversation and I hope people see the movie.

Will Tracy: Thank you. Thanks a lot.

Seth Reiss: Thank you. You’re awesome. Thanks.

Speaker 1: On Writing is a production of The Writer’s Guild of America East. This series was created and is produced by Jason Gordon. Our associate producer and designer is Molly Beer. Tech production and original music by Taylor Bradshaw and Stock Boy Creative. You can learn more about the Writer’s Guild of America East online at wgaeast.org. You can follow the Guild on all social media platforms at WGA East. If you like this podcast, please subscribe and rate us. Thank you for listening. And write on.

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